Here is the second part about chateaux.
I know that most of you gays now about the Trick of the Trade but we still have new officers comming so maybe they can learn something.
GENERAL INFORMATIONS SPECIALY FOR A NEW RECRIUTS
Units in hard cover (woods, villages, Chateaux) will not re-order once they become disordered. The men for some reason refuse to come out of hiding to line up and get shot like good chaps.
Limbered guns are destroyed when overrun by cavalry. Itís harder to hide under limbered up cannon.
Units in line are disordered when they share the same hex with units in column or a routing unit passes through their hex. Routing units do not disorder units in column, likely since they are already in a formation which can easily be turned around and join the general exodus.
Infantry units who form square with another unit in the same hex not in square (ie: a gun battery) lose the benefits of the square vs. cavalry charges. Yet another reason not to associate with the dreadful artillery.
Cannon firing at more than one unit in line in the same hex hit all line units in the hex.
Units with extended line capability whose strength falls below 600 automatically go into two-line formation, giving them a 25% firing bonus. Another reason to peel off those skirmishers.
If there are more than 250 skirmishers in a hex, they lose their 75% defensive bonus (which allows them to take only a quarter of normal damage from melee or ranged fires).
Skirmishers in building or rough hexes get a -2 defensive bonus (-1 in rough) and cannot be overrun. Skirmishers skulking behind hedges, walls, streams or embankments cannot be overrun.
Cavalry unfortunate enough to be caught in the same hex as infantry are treated as infantry, ie: they can be meleed by infantry and charging enemy cavalry is tripled. Proof positive that only disaster can result from mixing of the social classes.
Artillery is +25% against infantry in column or square. If youíre disordered in square you canít move until you re-order.
Firing at units in a chateau is a waste of powder, unless itís artillery within one or two hexes. Then itís just PROBABLY a waste of powder.
Cavalery is 8 times(not always)more expensive then infantry units.You would have to wipe out 200 infantry to make up for the loss of just 25 cavalry. Makes you think twice about that glorious charge, doesnít it?
If all units involved in a melee attack do not fire during the previous offensive fire phase they gain a +1 in the subsequent melee.
Disordered units melee and fire at 1/2 strength. If one unit making a melee attack is disordered, ALL units making that attack do so at 1/2 strength.
"When ... the Guard meets ... the Line en route,
the latter shall form in line of battle and port arms
or present sabers ... Flags and standards shall be dipped,
the drums shall beat Aux Champs ...
The colonels and commanders shall exchange salutes."
The corps of the Imperial Guard shall render the same honors
as it receives in such cases, but shall not halt its march."
SPECIAL THANKS FOR GEERT VAN UYTHOVEN.
Battles of cavalry vs. cavalry are perhaps the trickiest encounters to handle in the Battleground games, but also among the most important. Wise commanders use cavalry to secure their flanks on defence but also use their horse to attempt to turn their enemyís flanks. Thus, cavalry will often square off against each other in the all-important fights for position on the flanks.
First of all, remember that cavalry loses its powerful charge bonus against other cavalry, so the charge feature only gives your horsemen the benefit of added mobility. But if you use it wisely, you can set up devastating zone of control attacks on the enemy horse, coming up out of nowhere to cut off his lines of retreat and eliminate whole brigades in one successful melee. Which will make your VP total very healthy indeed.
One trick of the trade to note. Cavalry in the same hex as non-horse units (even a supply wagon) are treated like any other unit, ie: if you charge them, you get the triple bonus. Itís cheesy, but if you can somehow manage to drive an infantry or other unit into the same hex as your opponentís cavalry regiment, any charge against that hex will be tripled.
And for heavenís sake, USE THE TERRAIN TO ADVANTAGE! Place your cavalry so that there are obstructions between them and opposing horse, which will disorder them if they attempt to charge you and cut their strength in half.
The importance of mastering the basics of cavalry combat cannot be overstated: break your regiments down into squadrons before charging and keep them within command-control radius of their brigade leaders,it is very importend!
Because of the absence of that nasty triple charge bonus, all battles are fought at even odds (except those involving lancers or heavy horse: more on that later), so keep your regiments and brigades together and in stacks as close to the maximum per hex of 1,000 horse. If theyíre strung out in a line of 100-strength squadrons, they can be picked off one by one in a successful charge and series of melees.
The exception to the above rule is when your cavalry is providing a screen to protect retreating infantry or artillery against enemy horse. A line of 100 or less strength squadrons can often frustrate massed cavalry attacks if placed carefully to cover the entire area they are screening with their ZOCs. You will lose cavalry when your opponent charges, but only one squadron at a time. If your squadrons are only 25-men strong your opponent may well lose more than you, since you can only take one 25-horse loss. But this is only a delaying tactic, and can only put off the inevitable.
Third, use the counter-charge function as much as possible. One of the most common mistakes made by inexperienced cavalry officers (such as the unfortunate Ponsonby at the actual battle of Waterloo) is to press their charge one hex too far. You mount a glorious and successful charge only to find yourself surrounded by the enemy and eliminated in a counter-attack during the next turn. Itís happened to the best of us ...
One way of avoiding this is leaving yourself a rearguard: a squadron that charges with the rest of the attack, but does not melee. Instead it stays back, holding that one crucial hex open as an avenue of retreat. Even if an enemy ZOC cuts that route off, the presence of a friendly unit will allow your other units to retreat (as long as thereís room in that hex for them: remember the 1,000 cavalry per hex limit!)
The counter-charge is another way around this problem. Youíre charging during your opponentís turn, which means you can scurry back to safer ground during your movement phase. Not to mention the fun of foiling all his carefully planned charges! Just remember that only one stack at a time can counter-charge one target: no ganging up from different hexes as in the regular charge phase.
So plan on counter-charging. Position your stacks of cavalry to cover the approaches from which an enemy charge might come, and donít forget that the counter-charging unit(s) must have a clear field across which to charge. One skirmisher in the way and it wonít work. Plan carefully and position your lads to cover threatened areas, preferably from hexes that are invisible to the enemy.
Fourth; toujours líaudace! Especially against lancers and heavy horse. Itís better to attack lancers, when they defend at 75% strength, than to let them hit you with their 10% attacking bonuses. Same goes for heavies, although they defend at normal strength.
And by all means try to use combined arms to your advantage: a brigade or two of infantry can help secure your lines of retreat and guard against getting cut off and eliminated. And we all know what artillery can do to cavalry ....
In addition to the horse-on-horse battles for the flanks, cavalry can also be a valuable defensive commodity.
As a last resort, cavalry can be thrown into the breach to cover the retreat of your infantry and artillery, especially if youíre playing using the house rules on skirmishers/infantry vs. cavalry.
Throw up a screen of cavalry squadrons between your troops and the enemy: the advancing infantry/skirmishers canít get closer than 2 hexes in most cases and it will take time to bring up artillery or their own cavalry to clear the way. This is however, an expensive way to cover a retreat, since your cavalry will take losses from musket and artillery fire. To be used only as a last resort ...
SOME INFORMATIONS ABOUT CAVALERY ARE BY Colonel C. Wattie. Thank you.
"One of cuirassier regiments developed a unique test for newly assigned officers.
You were given 3 horses, 3 bottles of champagne, and 3 'willing girls' -
and 3 hours to kill the champagne, cover the girls and ride a rough 20-mile course.
(Of course you could draw up your own schedule of events".
|That is all for now but we still ned some info about artillery.
Best Regards, Mieszko
The Type of Troops
Finally, some good news, the only troops allowed in a chateau is infantry, and infantry comes in two forms. Skirmishers and Line Bn. (lord help us if the game allowed artillery!).
-Skirmishers are the toughest, so we'll talk about those suckers later.
-Line Bn. have two big weaknesses in defending a chateaux.
1. Line Bn. does not reduce ranged fire, so cannon from 3-5 hexes can still inflict a good hurt!
2. Line Bn. cannot form a square in a chateau, so they must be in column or line and therefore they ††† have a flank. Which is a lot more important than you think.
Your best bet here is to just blast away with cannon and infantry lines, don't bother meleeing them at all.. Most likely the numbers and odds will be too great anyway. They WILL eventually rout out of the chateau or be destroyed from your cannon's. All it takes is time; if it must be done quickly, bring more cannon.
Only melee when/if the numbers get reasonable (like BELOW 100 left), and then send in one or two columns for the Coup de Gras. Of course, if they all die, melee with what you have in the area for that "defending hex overrun" and take that freebee!
While we are on the subject, this is probably a good time to diverge to the subject of troops routing out of a chateau. First, YES, it does happen. So:
"Show them a way to live, that way they will not be so willing to fight to the death" - Sun Tzu.
If you want the defenders to rout, DO NOT surround the chateau, well, at least not completely. Your best choice is to secure the ground around the chateau so you can leave the exists/entrances open, and have no fear of reinforcements arriving. If you canít do that, get ZOC's around the entire chateau, but still allow an exit to be open. Its a tricky maneuver, but can be done. The problem here is a troop will rout at the beginning of your foe's movement phase, which means he will be able to re-man it if you keep an exit open.
This (sometimes) can be prevented with creative ZOC's. Figure it out. This is also why the flank of the columns and lines help out a bunch. If you are lucky enough to get a line enfilade, then not only will you get a +2 to your FRT roll, but you also get that ever-important +2 DRM to the rout check! If their in column, no big deal, no +2 FRT mod but cannon still get there 50% increase in fire factor (25% for infantry lines), and the +2 DRM for the rout check still applies. Even Qual-7 troops have a chance of routing with just the enfilade modifier; qual-5 or 4 forget it Ö they are out of there.
This is your nightmare. Skirmishers defending a Chateau. First, if there are more than 250 of them in it, blast away just like it was a Line Bn. Until their numbers are reduced to 250 or less (hopefully you can get them to like 275, and kill 50-100 to get them actually below the 250 skirmish mark, and not right at it). It is very helpful to have the chateau isolated by this point too, otherwise more troops will keep piling in and you'll never get anywhere. Remember; leave an exit open if you can! At this point, the skirmishers have a good chance to rout, if not completely destroyed, w/t ranged fire. Once one rout's, they all disorder making the rest easier to rout, then when a couple start running low on ammo, they rout even easier, etc.. etc.. Once the skirmishers hit the 250 skirmish mark, or if your foe was smart enough not to overload the chateau, life becomes miserable. And this really becomes a game of understanding the game mechanics, lucky rolls, and throwing columns of troops upon the chateau, hoping & praying that you don't lose too many troops, or fatigue too many troops in the attempt. [Editors Note: if you are playing with the optional isolation rule, once skirmishers get below the 250 mark, and are isolated, their effective force is 125 or less, almost making it possible to melee with some decent odds, w/o sacrificing your entire army in the process.] Also, after a couple of failed melee's (it will happen!) the troops inside the chateaux fatigue should be up around the 4+ mark and beginning to affect the rout chances. At this point you might want to really consider giving the troops a path out (of course w/o allowing more troops in), and letting the cannon try and get the lucky 25-man hit and get the defenders to flee. This is important, even if you can't get them all to run, at least you can reduce their numbers, making the melee's a little less painful.
Combo Best bet here. Treat them like you would any Chateau defended by battalions, try getting them to rout and hope they take the skirmishers with them. If they don't, make sure you have read the section on skirmishers real well.
The actual numbers are not as important as the quality of the troops defending the chateau. Everyone knows what a pain those qual-7 Footguard/Coldstream skirmishers are. We've all tried to dig them out of Hogomount before. Itís not that easy, is it? But yet, those qual-4 skirmishers in and around Papelotte seem to go much easier. Weird. Numbers are numbers, and all numbers can be defeated with more numbers, quality on the other hand. Quality can overcome numbers and situation, and lets face it they got a good situation here. Which means its just that much more difficult.
Examples of melee's
2-100 man skirmishers are in a chateaux, to melee it w/t 6:1 odds you must attack with 2400 infantry. I.e. it can't be done.
Check out this tableÖ
Garrison Strength Maximum Melee Odds Min. Troops for Max. Odds
250 4:1 2000 (2:1 = 1000)
225 4:1 1800 (2:1 = 900)
200 4:1 1600 (2:1 = 800)
175 4:1 1400 (2:1 = 700)
150 6:1 1800 (4:1 = 1200)
125 6:1 1500 (4:1 = 1000)
100 6:1 1200 (4:1 = 800)
75 6:1 900 (4:1 = 600)
50 6:1 600 (4:1 = 400)
Those are some horrible numbers. A brief summary on game mechanics.
Fire Factor Min. Roll Needed to kill 25 Men Max. Modifier
†01-04 ††† 11-01
†05-08 ††† 10-02
†09-12 ††† 09-13
13-16 †††† 08-04
17-20 †††† 07-05
21-25 †††† 06-06
What that means, if your fire, upon ANY target has a greater negative modifier than the one given in the Max. Modifier column, you CANNOT do damage to that target, all you can do is increase the fatigue, and if the modifier is two greater "negatively" than that value, you can't even do that. Remember this. Oh yeah, the qual-6+ (mod 1) to fire increases the Max. Modifier by one.
Here's something else. When skirmishers are below the skirmish line (250 troops or less in a hex), the MAXIMUM fire that 6-class D cannons can do (at range one) is 18. No higher, that's at range one, and range two its 12 (that's A, B, or D's) and at range 3 (for A's or B's) its 8.
|One last thing.... good luck people, youíll need it!
Best Regards, Mieszko
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Last updated - February 4, 2006
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FIRST PART ABOUT CHATEAUX AND HOW TO TAKE THEM.
First, we must look at the basic objectives / methods that are used in attacking a Chateau. First, why are you attacking this chateau? (Hint: The answer is not Victory Points) Most likely the Chateau is either Papelotte, LHS, or the dreaded Hogomount, and most likely it is in the way of your main attack, and has been loaded down with skirmishers ready to pour enfilade fire down upon any troops that try to attack around it. Right? If that's not the case, ask yourself once again, WHY are you attacking this Chateau, attacking a chateau can be a lengthy, resource-raining endeavor, and unless you really need those troops out of there, DO NOT attack it. Especially for a mere 200 VP, Granted, you would have to lose 50 cannon or 5000 infantry to make it a wash, but you will add fatigue, waste time, waste resources, and tie up troops in the attack. THINK before you begin the attack.
Okay, let assume that the chateau must fall. Question: What must be done to take it? Answer: The garrison in the chateaux must either be 1) destroyed, 2) or routed out of it AND it must be impossible for your foe to re-garrison it. How can you do that? There are two different ways to "destroy" them, w/t ranged fire or via melee. And since cavalry cannot enter a Chateau, then it must be melee w/t infantry, even more bad news, when you do melee a chateau's garrison, the attacking troops have their strength values halved (for purposes of melee odds.) Getting the troops to rout out of the chateau and, more importantly, getting them to rout out of the chateau and making sure it can't be re-garrisoned is very tricky. The problem with this method is twofold.
†1. They will rout at the beginning of your foes movement phase, which means Ö.
2. Since they were able to rout out of the chateau, most likely, troops can get back into the chateau (but not always!)
On a side note, they will not rout out of the chateaux because of losses suffered during an (obviously) failed melee, it must be either ranged fire or adjacent troops that trigger the rout check. What method you use depends on the type of troops, strength (size) of those troops, the ground around the Chateau, and the
|Next time IīMay 15, 2006